I recently spent about a week and a half in Italy and Malta as the special guest lecturer aboard the Variety Voyager, the flagship of the Variety Cruises fleet. Despite being their largest ship, it carries a maximum of just 72 passengers, making for a wonderfully intimate experience. It was a pleasure to share my knowledge and experiences with the guests while revisiting some of the Italian volcanoes I first explored while filming Angry Planet back in 2008.

 

Our itinerary included Pompeii, Stromboli, Mount Etna, Lipari, and several remarkable Neolithic archaeological sites, along with plenty of opportunities to experience the history, culture, and incredible cuisine of Italy and Malta. My sincere thanks to Variety Cruises for inviting me aboard. It was a fantastic voyage, and I hope our paths cross again in the future.

This trip didn't get off to the best start. My afternoon flight from Toronto to Montreal was uneventful, but extreme heat and humidity sparked a series of thunderstorms that delayed my overnight flight to Naples. Once we were finally airborne, I figured the worst was behind us. I was wrong.

More storms over southern Italy meant we couldn't land in Naples. After circling the airport for a while, our flight was diverted to Rome. Once on the ground, we spent another hour or so waiting on the tarmac for a gate. By the time we finally reached one, the crew had exceeded their maximum duty time, so the flight was cancelled. That was the end of it. We were told to gather our belongings and leave the aircraft.

All the passengers were bused to the terminal, where we cleared customs and then waited more than an hour for our luggage. Air Canada rebooked me on a flight to Naples the following day, but I didn't want to lose an entire day, so I made other plans. After navigating a confusing series of train stations and taking two trains, all while trying to sort things out with Air Canada over the phone, I finally made it to Naples and grabbed a taxi to my hotel in Sorrento.

Dinner was served on a patio overlooking the Mediterranean as distant lightning flickered across the evening sky. After the ordeal of getting to Italy, and coming on the heels of a whirlwind trip to Los Angeles and back just two days earlier, I was completely exhausted. I crashed almost as soon as my head hit the pillow.

Yesterday's travel and weather were chaotic, but today couldn't have been more different. Under clear skies and warm temperatures, I enjoyed breakfast at the hotel before heading into the charming town of Sorrento. Its narrow cobblestone streets are lined with countless little shops, while dramatic cliffs overlook the beaches and marinas of the Bay of Naples.

It had been many years since my last visit to Italy, so having some authentic pizza was an easy decision. Conveniently, there was an excellent spot right across the street from the hotel. Afterwards, I grabbed my camera and watched the sun set behind Faro Capo Miseno, bringing a perfect end to a much calmer day.

There was some significant confusion this morning. Today was supposed to be embarkation day aboard the Variety Voyager, but the instructions I had been given were incorrect. I went to the main cruise terminal, only to discover the ship wasn't there. Nobody seemed to know where I was supposed to go until one helpful woman figured out that the Variety Voyager was docked at a completely different pier. Since it was swelteringly hot, I skipped the long walk and grabbed a taxi.

Once aboard, I got settled into my cabin before heading out at 3:30 for an excursion to the ancient city of Pompeii. The last time I was there was in January 2008 while filming Angry Planet, and a great deal of excavation has taken place since then.

Pompeii is, of course, famous for the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, when the Roman city was buried beneath meters of volcanic ash and pumice. The eruption preserved buildings, artwork, artifacts, and even the victims themselves in extraordinary detail, creating one of the world's most remarkable snapshots of everyday life in the Roman Empire.

It was brutally hot, but there was one advantage to visiting in the late afternoon: the crowds had largely disappeared after the day-tripping cruise passengers returned to their ships. The ruins are incredible, with beautifully preserved sculptures, mosaics, frescoes, and architecture. We spent several hours exploring, yet still managed to see only a small fraction of the site.

Back aboard the ship around 7:00, we learned that strong winds had forced a change in tomorrow's itinerary. Our planned stop in Capri has been cancelled, and instead we'll be spending the morning on a local tour of Naples.

Since we were unable to visit Capri today, the Variety Cruises team arranged a bus tour around Naples instead. We first drove around the city before heading to an overlook of Campi Flegrei, the massive volcanic caldera that lies partly on land and partly beneath the Bay of Naples. Standing there and looking across the tranquil water, it's hard to imagine that one of the world's largest volcanic systems is hidden in plain sight.

Our next stop was the Vomero district, where we had some free time to explore. We wandered through Parco di Villa Floridiana, a beautiful park filled with shady pathways that were a welcome escape from the afternoon sun. The highlight was a large pond inhabited by what must have been close to a hundred pond slider turtles. Some paddled lazily through the water while others basked shoulder to shoulder on rocks and logs.

The final stop took us to an upscale neighborhood along Via Francesco Petrarca, offering sweeping views over the Bay of Naples, its yacht-filled marinas, and of course, Mount Vesuvius. Unlike Campi Flegrei, which hides its true scale beneath the landscape, Vesuvius dominates the skyline and serves as a constant reminder of the region's volcanic past.

While we were touring, the Variety Voyager had repositioned to the main cruise terminal, ironically the very place where I had tried to find it the day before. Once everyone was back aboard, we set sail for Capri. Although we were unable to go ashore, we were able to cruise around most of the island, taking in its spectacular scenery. Towering limestone cliffs plunged into the sea, a solitary lighthouse stood watch over the coastline, luxury yachts dotted the crystal-clear water, and the famous Faraglioni sea stacks rose dramatically from the sea, including one pierced by a natural stone arch.

From Capri, Captain Orpheus turned the ship toward the Amalfi Coast, hugging the shoreline from Positano to beyond the town of Amalfi. It was every bit as breathtaking as I'd imagined. Whitewashed villages clung impossibly to the steep mountainsides, cascading from the clifftops almost to the water's edge. We passed several luxurious cliffside hotels, some connected to the sea by long staircases carved into the rock. One was even built beside the entrance to a huge sea cave.

As the sun began to set, we left the coast behind and headed south across the Tyrrhenian Sea toward tomorrow's destination: the Aeolian island of Lipari.

We were up early for breakfast around 7:00, just as the ship approached the Aeolian Islands. From the deck, we had an excellent view of Lipari and its famous pumice quarry. Glancing around from the top deck, we could also see Stromboli behind us, Vulcano ahead, and, far beyond them, our first glimpse of Mount Etna producing small ash emissions on the distant horizon.

At 8:30 we took a tender ashore to Lipari, where we met our local guide. Before setting off, I gave the group a brief introduction to the island's fascinating geology. We then wandered through Lipari's narrow cobblestone streets to the archaeological museum, home to an impressive collection of Greek and Roman pottery and other ancient artifacts, before visiting the island's beautiful cathedral.

From there, we boarded a bus and drove a complete circuit of the island. Along the way we stopped to overlook the pumice quarry, examined pieces of volcanic obsidian for which Lipari is also well known, and enjoyed spectacular viewpoints overlooking the surrounding Aeolian Islands.

On the island's southern coast we had an excellent view towards the crater of Vulcano, while Mount Etna continued to send occasional ash emissions into the sky hundreds of kilometres away.

Back in town, we stopped at a small restaurant to sample a local white wine. Served nicely chilled with a pleasantly sweet flavour, it was a perfect way to wrap up the excursion.

Before dinner, I gave my first presentation of the voyage. It served as an introduction to my work as an explorer, photographer, and television host, followed by an overview of Stromboli and what the group could expect to see in the days ahead. The talk was very well received.

After dinner, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset as we approached Stromboli. Just as the last sliver of the Sun disappeared below the horizon, I was lucky enough to catch a brief “green flash”, a rare optical phenomenon caused by Earth's atmosphere refracting sunlight and momentarily separating the colors of the spectrum, allowing a vivid green spot to appear for a second or two before the Sun vanishes completely.

As darkness fell, we rounded Stromboli, passing the village before coming into view of the volcano's active summit above the Sciara del Fuoco ("Stream of Fire"), the steep scar on the northwest flank where lava, rocks, and other volcanic debris cascade into the sea. Captain Orpheus expertly positioned the ship just outside the exclusion zone, which exists because Stromboli occasionally produces much larger explosive events capable of generating pyroclastic flows that race down the Sciara del Fuoco and into the water.

The volcano was putting on a classic display, producing explosive eruptions every 10 to 20 minutes. This style of activity is so characteristic that volcanologists have named it Strombolian eruptions after the volcano itself. Each explosion hurled glowing lava bombs high into the night sky before they tumbled back onto the slopes, making for spectacular photographs as the orange glow reflected off the calm sea.

Nearly everyone on board gathered on the top deck to watch the show. With almost no light pollution, the Milky Way stretched overhead, and we even spotted a train of Starlink satellites gliding silently across the sky. Eventually it was time to continue our voyage, but not before Stromboli treated us to one final eruption, a fitting farewell.

Looking out my cabin window first thing this morning, I was greeted by the sight of an ash plume rising from Mount Etna. The volcano has been erupting for about a week, and it looked as though the activity would continue during our time in Sicily. Under another sunny, hot sky, we dropped anchor off the coastal town of Naxos.

After taking a tender ashore, we boarded a bus to the beautiful hilltop town of Taormina. I was surprised by just how crowded it was. The narrow, pedestrian-only streets were packed with tourists, many of them Italian, weaving between boutique hotels, designer shops, cafés, and restaurants. Since we were in Sicily, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try a traditional cannoli filled with sweet ricotta, and it definitely lived up to the hype.

The crowds, however, were a bit much. When I saw the long line to enter the ancient Greek Theatre, I decided it wasn't worth the wait. Instead, I found some excellent gelato, then caught a taxi back to the port to wait for the next tender to the ship.

Later in the afternoon, we had another opportunity to swim off the stern of the Variety Voyager. The water was a little cooler than the day before, but perfectly refreshing. Floating in the Ionian Sea with Mount Etna and its ash plume visible in the distance made for a memorable swim.

Before dinner, a trio of Sicilian musicians came aboard to perform on the aft deck, adding a wonderful local touch to the evening. Dinner featured a variety of Sicilian and Italian dishes, and I definitely ate more than I should have.

At 9:00 p.m., I gave an after-dinner presentation about Mount Etna in preparation for tomorrow's visit. By then it was fully dark, and I had hoped to catch at least a hint of the volcano's summit glow. Instead, the mountain appeared quiet, suggesting that its recent eruptive activity was beginning to taper off.

I woke up at 2:30 a.m. and headed up to the top deck, hoping to catch the glow from Mount Etna's recent eruptions. Unfortunately, there was nothing to see, confirming my suspicion that the eruption was winding down. When I woke up again later that morning, the ash plume had disappeared, replaced by little more than steam and volcanic gases drifting from the summit.

After breakfast, we disembarked and boarded a bus for the hour-and-a-half drive up the slopes of Etna. Our destination was the cable car station at an elevation of about 2,000 metres. As much as I would have loved to continue higher, our visit ended there.

Even at 2,000 metres, the landscape felt otherworldly. We explored the barren volcanic terrain while I talked about the mountain's geology, examining older lava flows and walking around several secondary cinder cones. Mount Etna is Europe's highest and one of its most active volcanoes, standing at roughly 3,300 metres, although its elevation changes regularly as eruptions build up or collapse parts of the summit. Unlike the steep, symmetrical shape of many stratovolcanoes, Etna covers an enormous area and is dotted with hundreds of flank vents, allowing eruptions to occur far from the summit itself. It remains one of the best-monitored volcanoes in the world, with activity documented for nearly 2,700 years.

The weather couldn't have been better. Under clear skies, the temperature at 2,000 metres was pleasantly cool, a welcome change from the summer heat at sea level. I suppose I'll just have to come back yet again and make it all the way to the summit next time.

From there, we headed to a local winery for lunch and a tasting. Between the excellent Sicilian food and the locally produced wines grown in Etna's volcanic soils, it was all too easy to overindulge.

By late afternoon we were back in Catania and rejoined the Variety Voyager. After another excellent dinner on board, we spent the evening on the top deck watching the last light of day fade over Catania and the now-quiet silhouette of Mount Etna.

We were docked in the port of Syracuse, and after breakfast I headed ashore without much of a plan. Crossing the bridge onto the island of Ortigia, I decided to simply follow the shoreline around its perimeter. It was a peaceful walk, passing fishing boats, sailboats, and luxury yachts moored along the waterfront.

At the southern tip of the island stands the impressive Castello Maniace, a 13th-century fortress built by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II between 1232 and 1240. Constructed as both a military stronghold and a royal residence, it occupies a strategic position guarding the entrance to Syracuse's harbour. There were very few other visitors, allowing me to wander through its soaring vaulted halls, thick defensive walls, and spacious courtyards at my own pace.

Leaving the fort behind, I continued along the coast, watching locals cool off at their favourite swimming spots before turning into Ortigia's maze of narrow streets. A stop for another outstanding gelato was mandatory, followed by a visit to the ancient Greek ruins scattered throughout the old town. From there, I wandered through the bustling local market, where vendors sold fresh fruit, vegetables, seafood, cheeses, spices, and other Sicilian specialties.

After lunch back aboard the ship, I gave my third presentation of the voyage, titled Fun Volcano Facts, which turned out to be a lot of fun for both me and the audience.

Later that afternoon, several of us walked down to the docks, where we boarded two small boats for an excursion along the coast. We rounded the southern tip of Ortigia, passed Castello Maniace from the water, and continued to a series of sea caves carved into the limestone cliffs. Our boat captain’s skillfully navigated into several of the shallow caves before taking us to a beautiful natural rock arch. There they produced a bottle of limoncello, and we all jumped into the crystal-clear Mediterranean for a refreshing swim.

The return trip had one final surprise. Rather than circling the island, our captains aimed straight for one of Ortigia's low bridges. Everyone instinctively ducked as the boats slipped underneath with only a small amount of clearance to spare. It was a memorable ending to a fantastic afternoon on the water.

Goodbye, Italy. Hello, Malta, a brand new country for me.

This morning we arrived off the island of Gozo, where we boarded Zodiacs for the trip ashore before joining a guided excursion. Our first stop was Victoria, the island's capital. As we wandered through its narrow, winding streets, it was immediately apparent how deeply rooted Catholicism is in Maltese culture. Statues and images of St. George adorned many of the buildings before the streets opened into the beautiful Pjazza San Gorg, home to the impressive St. George's Basilica.

From there, we climbed to the Cittadella (Il-Kastell), the ancient fortified citadel that has watched over Gozo for centuries. The elevated position offered sweeping views across the city and surrounding countryside, while inside the walls we admired the striking Cathedral of the Assumption, one of the island's most recognizable landmarks.

Our next stop was the Ggantija Temples, one of the world's oldest freestanding monumental structures. Built around 3600 BC, these Neolithic temples predate both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids by more than a thousand years. Massive interconnected limestone blocks, some weighing many tonnes, form thick walls, curved chambers, and ceremonial passageways that have survived for nearly 6,000 years. Archaeologists believe the complex was used for ritual ceremonies, with stone altars, offering areas, and evidence suggesting that animal sacrifices may have been performed there. Standing among those enormous stones, it was remarkable to think that they had been carefully quarried, transported, and assembled using only Stone Age technology.

By mid-afternoon, the Variety Voyager had repositioned to a sheltered bay for one final swim from the stern. It was a fitting way to enjoy the warm Mediterranean before our voyage came to an end.

Later, Captain Orpheus brought the ship close to shore so we could see the famous Popeye Village, the colourful wooden film set constructed for the 1980 musical Popeye, starring Robin Williams. Rather than being dismantled after filming wrapped, the whimsical seaside village was preserved and has since become one of Malta's best-known tourist attractions.

That evening we gathered for the farewell dinner, celebrating a wonderful week aboard the Variety Voyager. It was a great opportunity to reflect on everything we had experienced together, from ancient archaeological sites and spectacular coastlines to active volcanoes, great food, and new friendships.

After breakfast, it was time to reluctantly say goodbye to the Variety Voyager. I grabbed a taxi to the Rosselli Hotel in the heart of Valletta's old town, where I'll be spending the next couple of days. Founded by the Knights of St. John in 1566 after the Great Siege of Malta, Valletta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its remarkably preserved Baroque architecture, imposing fortifications, and dense concentration of historic churches, palaces, and public squares. Every street seems to tell a story.

After settling into the hotel, I spent some time exploring the narrow limestone streets before heading out for dinner. I decided to try one of Malta's most traditional dishes: rabbit stew (fenkata). The rabbit was slow-cooked until it was incredibly tender in a rich tomato, wine, garlic, and herb sauce, making for a hearty and surprisingly flavorful meal. It was even better than I had expected.

By the time I finished dinner, the city had really come alive. The streets were packed with people enjoying the warm evening, live music drifted out from restaurants and bars, and the whole old town had an energetic, festive atmosphere. After stopping for, yes, another excellent gelato, I made my way back to the hotel for the night.

With a free day before heading home, a couple of us hired a driver for a half-day tour to visit a few more of Malta's remarkable archaeological sites.

Our first stop was the prehistoric temple complexes of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, dramatically situated on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. Built more than 5,000 years ago, these UNESCO-listed sites are among the oldest surviving freestanding stone monuments in the world. The engineering is astonishing. Some of the limestone blocks weigh over 20 tonnes, yet they were shaped and positioned with remarkable precision by Neolithic builders using only simple stone tools. The temples contain a series of interconnected chambers, altars, and carved features thought to have played an important role in religious ceremonies, while Mnajdra is also aligned with the rising sun during the spring and autumn equinoxes.

Our next stop was the enigmatic Dingli Cart Ruts, one of Malta's greatest archaeological mysteries. Scores of deep, parallel grooves have been carved into the limestone bedrock, sometimes crossing one another before abruptly ending at cliff edges or disappearing beneath the sea. No one knows exactly what created them. The leading theory is that they were worn by heavily loaded sledges or wheeled carts, repeatedly travelling the same routes, but that explanation leaves plenty of unanswered questions, particularly the absence of corresponding wear where people or animals would have walked.

Our final destination was St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat, an extensive underground burial complex dating from the Roman period. The network consists of long corridors leading to hundreds of rock-cut tombs, family burial chambers, and communal spaces where funeral feasts were once held. Exploring the cool, dimly lit passages offered an interesting contrast to the bright Mediterranean sunshine above ground and provided another reminder of Malta's long and layered history.

This evening marks the end of a fantastic trip. It was a real pleasure to return to places like Stromboli, Pompeii, and Mount Etna while also discovering so much of Lipari, Sicily, Gozo, and Malta for the first time. A sincere thank you to everyone at Variety Cruises for inviting me aboard to share my passion for volcanoes and exploration. It was a memorable voyage, and I hope to sail with them again in the future.