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I'll be posting regular updates. |
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With one free day before heading home, a couple of us hired a driver to explore a few more of Malta's archaeological treasures. We visited the remarkable Hagar Qim and Mnajdra temple complexes, where massive limestone blocks, some weighing more than 20 tonnes, were assembled over 5,000 years ago to create some of the oldest freestanding stone monuments on Earth. Next, we stopped at the mysterious Dingli Cart Ruts, a network of deep parallel grooves carved into the limestone whose origin and purpose continue to puzzle archaeologists. Our final destination was St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat, an extensive underground Roman-era cemetery with rock-cut tombs and burial chambers that offered a fascinating glimpse into Malta's ancient past. That evening marked the end of a fantastic trip. It was a pleasure to revisit iconic volcanoes like Stromboli, Pompeii, and Mount Etna while also discovering so much of Sicily, Gozo, and Malta for the first time. My sincere thanks to everyone at Variety Cruises for inviting me aboard to share my passion for volcanoes and exploration. I hope to sail with them again in the future. |
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After breakfast, it was time to reluctantly say goodbye to the Variety Voyager. I grabbed a taxi to the Rosselli Hotel in the heart of Valletta's old town, where I'll be spending the next couple of days. Founded by the Knights of St. John in 1566 after the Great Siege of Malta, Valletta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its remarkably preserved Baroque architecture, imposing fortifications, and dense concentration of historic churches, palaces, and public squares. |
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Goodbye, Italy. Hello, Malta, a brand new country for me. We arrived off the island of Gozo in the morning and went ashore by Zodiac for a guided tour, beginning in the capital of Victoria. After exploring its narrow streets, St. George's Basilica, and the historic Cittadella overlooking the island, we continued to the remarkable Ggantija Temples, one of the oldest freestanding stone monuments on Earth. Built around 3600 BC, the massive limestone structures predate both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids, and their enormous blocks and ceremonial chambers remain an astonishing feat of Neolithic engineering. Back aboard the Variety Voyager, we enjoyed one final swim in a sheltered bay before Captain Orpheus cruised past the colourful Popeye Village, the preserved film set built for the 1980 Robin Williams movie. That evening we gathered for a farewell dinner, reflecting on an unforgettable voyage filled with volcanoes, ancient history, spectacular scenery, excellent food, and a wonderful group of fellow travellers. |
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We spent the day in Syracuse, where I headed ashore after breakfast to explore the island of Ortigia on foot. Following the waterfront, I passed fishing boats, yachts, and quiet harbours before reaching the impressive Castello Maniace, the 13th-century fortress that has guarded the entrance to Syracuse's harbour for nearly 800 years. With very few other visitors around, I was able to explore its massive stone walls, vaulted halls, and courtyards at a leisurely pace. From there, I wandered through Ortigia's narrow streets, stopping for another excellent Sicilian gelato, visiting the ancient Greek ruins, and browsing the lively local market filled with fresh produce, seafood, and spices. After lunch back aboard the Variety Voyager, I gave my third presentation of the voyage, Fun Volcano Facts, which was a lot of fun for everyone. Later in the afternoon, several of us boarded small boats for a cruise around Ortigia's coastline. We explored sea caves, admired a beautiful natural rock arch, and celebrated with a glass of limoncello before jumping into the crystal-clear Mediterranean for a swim. On the way back, our captains squeezed the boats beneath one of Ortigia's remarkably low bridges, providing an exciting and memorable finish to another outstanding day in Sicily. |
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I woke up at 2:30 a.m. hoping to catch the glow from Mount Etna's recent eruption, but the volcano appeared quiet, confirming my suspicion that the activity was beginning to wind down. By sunrise, the ash plume had disappeared, leaving only steam and volcanic gases drifting from the summit. After breakfast, we drove about an hour and a half up Etna's slopes to the cable car station at roughly 2,000 metres above sea level. Although we didn't continue to the summit, the volcanic landscape was still spectacular, with broad lava fields, secondary cinder cones, and sweeping views across eastern Sicily. While exploring the area, I spoke to the group about Etna's geology and eruptive history. Europe's highest and one of its most active volcanoes, Etna rises to about 3,300 metres, although its height changes regularly as eruptions reshape the summit. Unlike many volcanoes, Etna has hundreds of flank vents that allow eruptions to occur well away from the summit crater. After our time on the mountain, we enjoyed lunch and a wine tasting at a local winery, where the fertile volcanic soils produce some outstanding wines. We returned to Catania in the afternoon, and after another excellent dinner aboard the Variety Voyager, watched the last light fade over the now-quiet silhouette of Mount Etna. |
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Looking out my cabin window first thing this morning, I was greeted by the sight of an ash plume rising from Mount Etna. The volcano has been erupting for about a week, and it looked as though the activity would continue during our time in Sicily. Under another sunny, hot sky, we dropped anchor off the coastal town of Naxos. After taking a tender ashore, we boarded a bus to the beautiful hilltop town of Taormina. I was surprised by just how crowded it was. The narrow, pedestrian-only streets were packed with tourists, many of them Italian, weaving between boutique hotels, designer shops, cafés, and restaurants. Since we were in Sicily, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try a traditional cannoli filled with sweet ricotta, and it definitely lived up to the hype. Later in the afternoon, we had another opportunity to swim off the stern of the Variety Voyager. The water was a little cooler than the day before, but perfectly refreshing. Floating in the Ionian Sea with Mount Etna and its ash plume visible in the distance made for a memorable swim. At 9:00 p.m., I gave an after-dinner presentation about Mount Etna in preparation for tomorrow's visit. By then it was fully dark, and I had hoped to catch at least a hint of the volcano's summit glow. Instead, the mountain appeared quiet, suggesting that its recent eruptive activity was beginning to taper off. |
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As darkness fell, we rounded Stromboli, passing the village before coming into view of the volcano's active summit above the Sciara del Fuoco ("Stream of Fire"), the steep scar on the northwest flank where lava, rocks, and other volcanic debris cascade into the sea. Captain Orpheus expertly positioned the ship just outside the exclusion zone, which exists because Stromboli occasionally produces much larger explosive events capable of generating pyroclastic flows that race down the Sciara del Fuoco and into the water. The volcano was putting on a classic display, producing explosive eruptions every 10 to 20 minutes. This style of activity is so characteristic that volcanologists have named it Strombolian eruptions after the volcano itself. Each explosion hurled glowing lava bombs high into the night sky before they tumbled back onto the slopes, making for spectacular photographs as the orange glow reflected off the calm sea. |
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We reached the Aeolian Islands early in the morning, just in time for breakfast on deck as the ship approached Lipari. From one spot we could see Lipari's famous pumice quarry, Stromboli behind us, Vulcano ahead, and even distant Mount Etna sending a small plume of ash into the morning sky. After taking a tender ashore, I gave the group a brief introduction to the island's volcanic geology before we set off to explore. We wandered through Lipari's charming cobblestone streets, visited the archaeological museum with its impressive collection of Greek and Roman artifacts, and stopped by the island's beautiful cathedral. A bus tour around the island took us to the famous pumice quarry, where we also examined pieces of volcanic obsidian, another of Lipari's well-known natural resources. Along the southern coast we enjoyed outstanding views toward Vulcano while Etna continued to puff away on the distant horizon. Back aboard the Variety Voyager, I gave my first presentation of the voyage, introducing myself and my work before talking about Stromboli and what everyone could expect over the next couple of days. After dinner we gathered on deck as the ship approached Stromboli under a beautiful sunset. Just as the last sliver of the Sun disappeared below the horizon, I was lucky enough to catch a brief green flash, the rare optical phenomenon caused by atmospheric refraction that lasts only a second or two. It was the perfect ending to an outstanding first full day in the Aeolian Islands. |
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There was some significant confusion this morning. Today was supposed to be embarkation day aboard the Variety Voyager, but the instructions I had been given were incorrect. I went to the main cruise terminal, only to discover the ship wasn't there. Nobody seemed to know where I was supposed to go until one helpful woman figured out that the Variety Voyager was docked at a completely different pier. Since it was swelteringly hot, I skipped the long walk and grabbed a taxi. Once aboard, I got settled into my cabin before heading out at 3:30 for an excursion to the ancient city of Pompeii. The last time I was there was in January 2008 while filming Angry Planet, and a great deal of excavation has taken place since then. Pompeii is, of course, famous for the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, when the Roman city was buried beneath meters of volcanic ash and pumice. The eruption preserved buildings, artwork, artifacts, and even the victims themselves in extraordinary detail, creating one of the world's most remarkable snapshots of everyday life in the Roman Empire. The ruins are incredible, with beautifully preserved sculptures, mosaics, frescoes, and architecture. We spent several hours exploring, yet still managed to see only a small fraction of the site. Back aboard the ship around 7:00, we learned that strong winds had forced a change in tomorrow's itinerary. Our planned stop in Capri has been cancelled. |
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Tomorrow I'm doing a free classroom presentation for the educational non-profit, Exploring By The Seat Of Your Pants. I'll be talking about my recent trip to Antarctica, the Magnetic South Pole, and most importantly, I'll be discussing some of the wildlife that lives in this extreme place. Albatrosses, penguins and whales all call this frozen world home, and each of them face unique threats to their survival. We'll talk about these threats, and some of the steps we've taken to protect these animals. |
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I have a 2 page spread in "The Official National Geographic Kid's Survival Guide". This book gives kids safety advice for when doing outdoor activities like hiking and camping. My section is about lightning and storm safety. |
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I return for season 3 of "The Mightiest"
on Crave TV & Amazon Prime. The new season premieres tonight with new episodes each week. |
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Today was the last full day of the grand adventure. Breakfast was at the hotel in Chefchaouen, then we drove northeast to Akchour in the Rif Mountains. It's incredibly lush and green there, with plenty of trees, farms and crop land. The limestone mountains are impressive, with towering peaks that we watched from winding switch backs on our hour-long drive. Once there, we met up with our local hiking guide, Zachariah. He took us for a 2 hour hike along the river, through beautiful terrain with countless small waterfalls and just as many small cafés and picnic spots. The water was incredibly clear and it was sunny and warm, good for hiking. We stopped numerous times to take pictures and admire the karst landscapes that surrounded us. This marks the end of not only the Morocco leg of this trip, but the whole round-the-world adventure that has taken up the past couple of months. From Toronto to Tasmania, the Magnetic South Pole, East Antarctica, the Kerguelen Islands, South Africa, Mauritania, and Morocco. Wow. Tomorrow we drive to Casablanca and I fly home to Canada. It has been truly epic in so many ways. |
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Our first stop of the day was Meknes, a UNESCO World Heritage city often called the “Moroccan Versailles.” Once the capital under Sultan Moulay Ismail in the early 1700s, the city is famous for its massive defensive walls stretching roughly 25 miles. We visited the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail and admired the enormous ornamental gates leading toward the royal palace complex. From there, we continued to Volubilis, home to the largest and best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco. Although our visit was brief, our guide led us efficiently through the sprawling site, highlighting impressive stonework and remarkably preserved mosaic floors. Bright sunshine and blooming flowers added colour to the ancient ruins and made the setting especially photogenic. The afternoon involved a three-hour drive north to Chefchaouen, Morocco’s famous “Blue City.” Before arriving, we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking the town, where countless blue-painted buildings spread across the hillside. After checking into the hotel, we headed back out with Salah to explore the maze-like medina. Narrow alleys, stairways, and winding paths connected lively squares, shops, and quiet corners. We visited the old laundry district along the river and encountered the city’s many friendly stray cats while wandering through the endlessly photogenic blue streets. |
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The day began with a walk through the maze-like medina of Fes before making a brief stop at the Royal Palace. Only the seven massive brass doors are visible to the public, but the intricate tilework and detailed metal craftsmanship were stunning. From there, we drove up to Borj Sud, an old military lookout that offered sweeping panoramic views across the sprawling old city. Next came a visit to Art Naji, where artisans create pottery and traditional Moroccan mosaics by hand. Watching craftsmen chip tiny tile fragments with sharp hammers and assemble elaborate patterns entirely from memory was incredible. The precision and skill involved were remarkable. Back in the medina, we wandered through narrow alleys lined with butcher shops, spice stalls, perfume vendors, baskets of live snails, and even storefronts displaying camel heads. The sensory overload of Fes was constant. We also visited one of the city’s famous tanneries, viewing the dye pits from a balcony above as workers treated hides from cows, goats, sheep, and camels using centuries-old methods. After a short rest, the evening was spent at a cooking school where we put on aprons and traditional red fez hats before learning how to prepare three classic Moroccan dishes. |
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Today was largely a travel day, with about seven hours of driving north through Morocco. Along the way, we were treated to impressive views of the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. At one point we climbed to nearly 2,000 metres in elevation, passing patches of snow and forests of pine trees that felt far more alpine than anything I expected to see in Morocco. After lunch, we stopped at the aptly named Monkey Forest, home to Barbary macaques. The tailless monkeys were very accustomed to people, lounging around the forest floor, grooming one another, and playing in the trees. The younger monkeys playfully chased each other through the cold mountain air. Later, we passed through Ifrane, a surprisingly European-looking town with steep-roofed buildings and conifer-lined streets that felt more Swiss than North African. As we approached Fes, traffic steadily increased, a clear sign that we were nearing one of Morocco’s major cities. |
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After checking out, we drove about an hour to the Tinghir region, where we met our local hiking guide, Nouri. The landscape was stunning, with towering sandstone cliffs surrounding a surprisingly lush green valley. We descended into the fertile farmland below, walking among small plots growing beans, olives, dates, figs, herbs, and alfalfa. Along the route we passed another abandoned village slowly crumbling back into the landscape, something surprisingly common in rural Morocco. The trail crossed streams and irrigation channels, weaving through groves and along the valley floor beneath the steep mountains. Birdlife was abundant, especially white cattle egrets feeding in the fields. At one point, Nouri spotted three Barbary sheep high on the cliffs. Watching them navigate near-vertical rock faces with incredible agility was a highlight of the hike. After roughly 8 kilometres, we drove to Todra Gorge. The immense canyon walls were spectacular, though far busier than expected with tourists, climbers, and local vendors filling the area. Lunch was hosted by a local Berber family in their home. We shared salad, chicken tagine, fruit, and tea while communicating through a mix of English, French, Arabic, and Berber, making for a warm and memorable cultural experience. |
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The morning began with clear skies and soft desert light spilling across the dunes as I wandered before breakfast. The rising sun gradually revealed the vastness of the landscape, making for a calm and memorable start to the day. Over breakfast, we learned that Marrakech had been hit by a rare April snowstorm, with over 20 cm falling in parts of the city. We left Cheggaga by Land Cruiser, retracing the rough desert tracks back to Mhamid before beginning a long drive of roughly six hours toward Dadès and the Eden Boutique Hotel, which felt more like a palace despite its maze of stairs. In the afternoon, I joined a two-hour hike with a local guide, Lahcen, through Monkey Fingers Gorge. The landscape was extraordinary, with massive sandstone formations resembling skeletal hands reaching up from the earth. We passed through an abandoned village, scrambled over boulders, and moved through a narrow slot canyon with rocks wedged overhead. The geology was striking throughout, with folded rock layers, vertical strata, and balanced stones scattered along the route. In the golden evening light, the terrain felt especially dramatic, resembling parts of the American Southwest in Arizona and Utah. |
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We drove from Dar Hnini to Mhamid, a remote town at the very edge of the road near the Algerian border. From there, we left our guides Salah and Adil and transferred into a Land Cruiser for the journey out to Cheggaga Dunes camp. The drive was a long off-road traverse through rocky desert and shifting sand, eventually reaching a surprisingly well-equipped camp with sleeping tents, a dining area, lounge space, electricity, running water, and a fire pit. After lunch, there was initial confusion about the timing of a camel ride, but it was eventually arranged for the evening. In the meantime, we explored the vast surrounding dunes, which stretched endlessly into the horizon. Sand constantly filled our shoes, especially as my sandals had already disintegrated earlier in the trip. Just before sunset, we set out on camels through strong winds that blew sand into the air and made visibility difficult at times. Despite the conditions, the ride was memorable, with steady, rhythmic movement across the dunes. Our destination was the base of the highest dune in the area, a popular viewpoint for sunset. We climbed to the top alongside other travelers, watched the camels depart into the long shadows, and shared drinks and stories as the sun set over the desert before returning to camp for dinner. |
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We were up at 5:00 AM for a hot air balloon flight over the outskirts of Marrakech. At the launch site, dozens of balloons were already inflating, their burners roaring as the sky slowly filled with colour. Our yellow canopy lifted into the air and we climbed into the basket, rising smoothly above the fields as about 50 other balloons drifted nearby. The flight was calm and scenic, with patchy clouds, farmland, roads, and distant villages passing below. Occasional bursts from the burner brought waves of heat in the otherwise cool morning air. As we approached landing, the pilots aimed for a planned breakfast site, but the wind suddenly died completely. We hovered almost motionless above private property before catching just enough breeze to drift toward the landing field. We touched down perfectly beside the breakfast setup. From there, we began a long drive toward Zagora, crossing the High Atlas Mountains with snow-capped peaks in view. Along the way, we stopped at Aït Benhaddou, a UNESCO-listed ksar known for its dramatic earthen architecture and its many film appearances, including Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and Lawrence of Arabia. |
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It was a cloudy, cold morning. No surprise that the balloon ride was postponed (fingers crossed for tomorrow). Our guide, Salah, picked us up and we all went to Bahia Palace, that was currently featuring an exhibit of old doors. Then we continued on to the Dar el Bacha Museum of Confluences. After that we returned back through the bustling alleys of Marrakech’s old medina. There were metalworkers, shops selling baskets, leather good being made & sold, spice merchants, you name it. We saw donkeys carrying leather hides while countless cats scurried about. It is controlled chaos. |
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It was a one-hour drive to Marrakech, and after settling in, we headed into the medina to Djemaa el-Fna, where the square was alive with performers, including snake charmers and monkey handlers, alongside endless stalls selling food, crafts, clothing, and metalwork. The atmosphere was chaotic, energetic, and highly commercial, especially around photography. Later, we visited the Majorelle Gardens, a striking oasis of bamboo, cactus, and palms, followed by the adjacent Yves Saint Laurent Museum. A planned hot air balloon flight the next morning was postponed due to weather concerns, with hopes to try again the following day. |
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The weather was cool and overcast, ideal for hiking, though gusty winds at times kicked up dust and made sections of the walk challenging. We followed off-trail paths through olive groves and red clay hills, crossing a narrow, slightly precarious footbridge over a small creek. Along the way, we passed through an abandoned Jewish village from the 1970s, now quiet and slowly returning to the landscape. Our final destination was a small Berber village where we were welcomed into the home of Mohammed and his wife. We were served mint tea and dressed in traditional clothing before sitting down to a homemade lunch. |
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A brutal travel day began with a 2:40 AM departure from Nouakchott, made worse by arriving at the airport around 11:00 PM to find repeated power outages. The terminal would suddenly go dark mid–check-in, then flicker back to life seconds later, repeating several times. I could only hope the same instability wasn’t affecting air traffic control. From Casablanca, we drove roughly four hours through Marrakech and into the Atlas Mountains, arriving at the Olinto Atlas Mountain Retreat. The contrast with the previous weeks in Mauritania was immediate. Set across 33 acres of olive groves and landscaped gardens, the property felt almost unreal after the desert landscapes. The architecture, vegetation, and overall design created a calm, refined atmosphere. Morocco itself felt surprisingly modern and green, a striking shift from the arid environments I had just come through. |
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Riding the Mauritania iron ore train is often described as one of the most extreme travel experiences in the world, and I was about to find out why. We assembled just after 11:00 PM in Choum, waiting in a quiet courtyard under a nearly full moon. Mosquitoes were surprisingly intense as midnight approached, and soon the call came: it was time. In the dark, we were driven to the tracks in two vehicles, their headlights switched off to avoid detection. At the train, we scrambled up the metal steps of an ore car, trying to stay unseen. The climb was awkward and precarious in near darkness. Once aboard, we discovered a load of solid iron ore rather than powder, which meant less dust but an unforgiving surface to sit on. A helper quickly spread a woven mat, and within moments the train lurched into motion. There was no turning back. The night passed under a bright moon, with occasional stops, including one near Ben Amera where we waited for a passing train. By sunrise, we were sharing the ride with unexpected companions: a man transporting goats in baskets and a small film crew moving between cars. As the day heated up, the lack of shade became punishing. We were fully exposed for hours, covered in dust and sun, uncertain when we would arrive. Eventually we rolled into Nouadhibou, where frantic taxis swarmed alongside the moving train. After disembarking, we were whisked to a house with showers, food, and clean clothes. The relief was immediate. We had survived the iron ore train: a relentless, rumbling machine that felt more alive than mechanical. Even after reaching town, the journey continued with a long drive back to Nouakchott. |
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The drive from Mhaïreth to Ben Amera passed through striking desert scenery that strongly resembled the American Southwest, with wide valleys, mesas, and scattered rock formations. We returned briefly to Atar to resupply snacks for the upcoming train journey, passing through the same dusty, worn-down streets that now felt familiar. Heading north and then west, the landscape opened into vast fields of sand and stone as we approached Ben Amera, the largest monolith in Africa and second only to Uluru worldwide. Its sheer scale was difficult to grasp from the ground. We continued around it toward nearby Aïsha, where we stopped for lunch in the shade. The two monoliths are traditionally referred to as male (Ben Amera) and female (Aïsha), adding a cultural layer to the landscape. At Aïsha, we also saw modern stone carvings created in 2000, a sharp contrast to the ancient rock art seen earlier in the trip. Later, we detoured to a decommissioned railway tunnel near Choum, built in 1962 and abandoned in the 1990s. Inside, the cool air and walls covered in wasp nests offered brief relief from the heat. We briefly crossed into Western Sahara via an unmonitored road section, marking another country visited before returning to Choum. There, at a simple guesthouse, we prepared for the iron ore train, shared a final meal, and rested briefly while waiting for its uncertain overnight arrival. |
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Breakfast at the auberge in Chinguetti was followed by a drive to Fort Saganne, a surreal replica desert fortress built as a set for the early 1980s French film of the same name. Set against mountains, plateaus, and a nearby canyon, the location felt both cinematic and slightly unreal, with dust from the previous day’s storm still lingering in the air. Nearby, we detoured to Agrour, a cliffside area filled with enormous boulders perched in precarious positions. With a local guide, we explored the site and discovered painted rock art rather than carved petroglyphs, depicting elephants, giraffes, humans, and horned animals. Some of the formations were massive, including a suspected ceremonial site with carved grooves suggesting ritual use thousands of years ago. We continued to the oasis of Mhaïreth, where we had lunch at a tented camp before heading to the water. A shaded pool in the desert proved irresistible in the heat, and we swam surrounded by dunes, reeds, and wildlife including dragonflies, lizards, and small fish. As evening fell, we returned to camp for dinner as a full moon rose. We were briefed on the next stage of the journey: a ride on the iron ore train, one of the most anticipated and uncertain parts of the trip ahead. |
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I stepped outside in the morning to a sky that was strangely orange and hazy. It quickly became clear we were in the middle of a dust storm. What I had assumed was local weather turned out to be part of a massive Saharan event, driven by Harmattan winds. A low-pressure system over Algeria had lifted an enormous wall of dust that stretched across North Africa and even reached the Canary Islands, disrupting air travel and blanketing multiple countries in suspended sand. After breakfast, we walked through town to meet local camel wranglers and set out toward Entkemkemt oasis. The experience of moving through the storm was surreal. The sun was reduced to a faint disc in a dim orange sky, and everything from people to vehicles was coated in dust. The landscape felt almost apocalyptic. We eventually assembled a caravan of camels and rode out into the wind. The journey took about an hour and a half across shifting sand, each camel moving with its own rhythm. My camel, Max, was steady, though others were less predictable. At one point, a sudden disturbance caused a camel to bolt, throwing our guide Hadmine to the ground. Fortunately, he landed safely in the sand. At the oasis, we rested, ate lunch, and briefly escaped the storm before returning to town as dust still hung heavily in the air. |
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The night was rough, marked by a long coughing fit that made sleep difficult and killed any plans for Milky Way photography. Around 4:30 AM, the call to prayer from a nearby village began and continued for nearly two and a half hours, looping through the desert air and raising questions about how loud it must be closer to its source. After sunrise, I noticed fox and beetle tracks in the sand, a reminder that even this harsh landscape supports more life than it first appears. With calm winds at breakfast, it was clear the heat would build quickly. We walked to an area scattered with tiny ancient seashells, evidence of a prehistoric ocean that once covered this region. We then drove to Chinguetti, a UNESCO-listed desert town known for its historic libraries. At one of the manuscript libraries, the curator showed us several ancient texts but offered little context, distracted at times by constant smartphone notifications. After lunch, we explored the old town, including its historic mosque and quiet market streets during the midday heat. In the late afternoon, we observed buildings being slowly overtaken by encroaching sand, including a guesthouse abandoned after just a few decades. At sunset, we gathered on a dune near an old mosque, learning to prepare Mauritanian tea and playing a traditional sand-based game before night fell. |
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After breakfast at the auberge, we explored the new town of Ouadane, wandering its dusty streets and even joining a spontaneous soccer game with local kids. A surreal highlight followed at the so-called Ouadane Museum, which turned out to be three adjoining buildings curated by a charismatic elderly man. The first was a crumbling stone structure filled with chaotic piles of objects, from trash and rusted debris to possible ancient artefacts, with an unsafe, open pit at the entrance. The second was even more overwhelming, where stone tools appeared scattered among metal fragments, teapots, bullet casings, and household scraps, earning it our nickname, the “Museum of Tetanus.” The third building, his home, offered a striking contrast. After sitting down and sharing dates, he presented several handwritten manuscripts, some up to 800 years old, including Qur’anic texts. It was one of the most surreal cultural encounters of the journey. We then returned to the desert, set up camp, and watched sunset over the dunes, at one point framing the sun with a wandering donkey. I was feeling increasingly unwell with a worsening fever and stomach issues, but the evening continued with a moonlit roast goat dinner prepared by a nearby village. |
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Sleep was scarce after another night of battling the tent in strong winds, and conditions stayed cold and gusty through breakfast. Today’s goal was the Richat Structure, the “Eye of the Sahara,” a vast circular formation roughly 40 km across in the heart of the desert. From ground level, it is surprisingly subtle, but its scale becomes clearer as you move across it. Geologically, it is not an impact crater as once believed, but a deeply eroded dome where uplifted rock layers were slowly exposed over millions of years by wind and rare water erosion. The result is a striking bullseye of alternating ridges and plains. We approached via rough desert tracks, first reaching a high ridge where the structure suddenly revealed itself in full scale. The concentric rings stretched to the horizon, difficult to comprehend in size. Driving down into the formation, we crossed multiple layers of terrain, including orange sands and bluish rock that resembled Martian landscapes. We passed goat herders, a closed school, and scattered camels as we moved across the rings with no real roads, only faint tracks. Eventually we reached the center, a high dome offering a wide panoramic view over the entire structure. After some time at the summit, we began the journey onward to Ouadane. |
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At around 5:30 AM, I woke to capture the Milky Way above an acacia tree, the desert sky still dark and clear after the moon had set. Breakfast was served at the tented camp before we departed and headed deeper into the desert. Along the way we discovered additional petroglyphs etched into large boulders, followed by stops to photograph sweeping sand dunes. Our next stop was Bir Ziri, a French colonial fort from the 1910s. We explored its empty structures, imagining the harsh conditions endured by soldiers stationed in such an isolated, unforgiving environment. After lunch, we encountered numerous camel skeletons scattered across the landscape, stark reminders of the desert’s relentless conditions. Later, we visited El Ghallaouiya, another French fort with unusual beehive-like structures, an active well, and a small bat colony inside its walls. Navigation was entirely off-road, with no formal GPS, relying instead on the deep knowledge of local drivers moving through vast, featureless terrain. In the afternoon, we reached a cliffside with some of the best rock art of the trip, depicting elephants, giraffes, ostriches, and more. By evening, we camped on an open sandy plain with little shelter. The wind intensified overnight, making sleep difficult as tents strained and flapped until dawn. |
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Up early and had breakfast. We packed up camp and drove on for a while then stopped on a vast salt flat. It didn't have the typical white colour that normally salt flats have because the salt here was mainly covered by a crust of dirt. Once you scratched through the crust, the salt was evident beneath. By lunchtime, we stopped at a interesting spot. It was a valley, sandwiched between some huge beige sand dunes and the scree slope of a giant mesa. We had lunch amongst the impossibly thorny acacia trees . In the afternoon we continued on to a boulder-strewn area that was home to some ancient rock art. These petroglyphs are 4000-6000 years old and depict animals such as camels, giraffes and more. They were fascinating to see. Close by in El Beyyed, we encountered one of the most remote and unusual museums I've ever seen. It was a single building, filled with prehistoric artifacts from the people that used to live in this area. Stone tools, bracelets, axe heads, fishing weights and more. They had several fulgurites as well (sand fused by lightning strikes). The curator was a charismatic old man named Yeslem and he took great pride in his collection and clearly took care of it all. We spent the night at the tented camp by the museum, and had veggie stew with rice for dinner. Afterwards, our cook showed us how he baked “sand bread” in the coals of the fire. |
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After breakfast at the auberge in Azougui, we walked into the small village (population around 300) in search of the ruins of an 11th-century fort. We eventually found it, though little remained beyond crumbling walls and a gate held shut with twisted wire. Despite its simplicity, the site is an officially recognized Islamic heritage location and a potential UNESCO World Heritage candidate. In the afternoon, we left town and drove deep into the desert, crossing rocky plains and sand dunes. We paused at an abandoned structure in the middle of nowhere and later gathered firewood before reaching our campsite. As the sun set over the dunes, we set up tents and had dinner of camel meat and couscous. Wind picked up sharply overnight, shaking the tents. Eventually, I stepped outside to a clear sky and an extraordinary view of the Milky Way stretching overhead. |
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Today we set off in four Toyota Hilux pickups, heading to the Atlantic coast where Nouakchott’s fishermen launch their brightly painted wooden boats directly from the beach. The surf was rough, and it was fascinating to watch them time their departures through the breaking waves, with dozens of boats already working offshore. On the way out of town, we stopped at a vast camel market filled with hundreds of dromedaries. Prices ranged roughly from 800 to 2,000 euros, though I wasn’t in the market for one. From there, we began a long drive northeast, breaking up the journey with stops and a simple lunch under an acacia tree prepared by the expedition cook. The landscape gradually shifted into something resembling the American Southwest, with dramatic sandstone buttes rising from the desert. Our main destination was the Terjit Oasis, reached via a rough track into a steep gorge. Suddenly, the barren desert gave way to lush palm trees, flowing water, and shaded pools fed by small waterfalls. The warm water was a welcome contrast to the surrounding heat. Continuing on toward Atar, we watched the late sun light up the mountains before reaching our guesthouse in Azougui. Dinner was served in the courtyard, bringing a long desert travel day to a close. |
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Yesterday was a much-needed rest day, a pause after weeks of constant movement and long-haul flights. After checking out today, I left unnecessary cold-weather gear behind and transferred to the Mauicenter Hotel for the next stage of the journey. There we met our local guide, Hadmine for a brief orientation before heading out into the city. We visited the mosque area, went up to a high rooftop viewpoint, and had lunch at an outdoor café before walking through parts of the market. Nouakchott felt chaotic and dusty, with a mix of modern cars and worn-out vehicles, and lively but unpredictable streets. After a full day exploring the capital, we prepared to set off again the following morning. |
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Due to major flight disruptions linked to the U.S.–Iran conflict at the time, my planned route from Cape Town to Nouakchott via Dubai and Algiers had to be rerouted through Frankfurt. The long overnight flight went smoothly, but the disruptions began again on the next leg. Shortly after takeoff from Frankfurt to Algiers, the aircraft struck a bird and had to turn back for inspection. We remained on board while the plane was checked, refueled, and the crew was changed, resulting in a delay of a couple of hours. Fortunately, the issue was resolved quickly and we continued to Algiers without further incident. The final leg to Nouakchott involved multiple gate changes and delays, but eventually we departed and I managed to sleep through most of the flight. After landing, clearing immigration and customs, and a long drive from the airport, I finally reached the hotel at around 2:30 AM after two exhausting days of travel. |
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The day began with the most spectacular sunrise of the voyage so far. Golden light spilled across the horizon, illuminating brilliant blue icebergs while countless seabirds followed the ship through calm Antarctic waters. Ahead, the captain guided us between two enormous icebergs along a narrow channel leading toward the Shackleton Ice Shelf. At the edge of the fast ice, emperor penguins stood watching curiously as the ship broke through the frozen surface. Soon after, we stepped onto the sea ice for one of the most unforgettable experiences of the expedition. Conditions were calm and just below freezing, perfect for exploring the vast white landscape. Emperor penguins were everywhere. Many waddled directly toward us, curious and completely unbothered by our presence. As we walked a three-kilometre loop across the ice, we often had to stop and let them pass. Near the ice shelf, we also encountered small colonies of Adélie penguins shuffling through the snow. The weather shifted constantly, with brief snowfall followed by clearing skies and changing light every few minutes. Back aboard the ship, emperor penguins swam and leapt through the open water behind the stern. |
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We arrived at Australia’s Casey Station in the Windmill Islands under improving weather, though heavy pack ice complicated access. After a helicopter reconnaissance flight found open water in Vincennes Bay, the ship repositioned and we made a landing on Holl Island, likely one of the first expedition cruise visits ever made there. Snow fell heavily as we climbed steep, slippery rocks surrounded by molting Adélie penguins, patches of moss, and a massive elephant seal snoring among the boulders. A Zodiac cruise revealed young penguins nervously considering their first swims, along with storm petrels, southern fulmars, and even a rare fulmar chick. Later, the ship repositioned again for a landing on the Antarctic continent itself at Browning Peninsula. In the afternoon, our kayaking group launched into calm waters near the Vanderford Glacier. We paddled past elephant seals sprawled across the rocks, their smell impossible to ignore, and along the icy shoreline beneath towering cliffs and glaciers. Back on board, I quickly changed gear and joined the final Zodiac ashore onto the continent. Huge snowflakes drifted down as elephant seals grunted and roared through the rocky valley. From a high lookout point, there were sweeping views across the bay and the glacier we had just paddled beside. |
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The day began with plans for a helicopter reconnaissance flight near the Dalton Glacier, but worsening weather quickly changed those plans. Strong winds, blowing snow, and low cloud forced the captain to continue west toward Casey Station instead. Around breakfast, a pod of roughly 30 Type-C orcas appeared beside the ship and stayed with us for quite a while. Soon after, several humpback whales joined them, seemingly unconcerned by the presence of the orcas (these are fish-eating orcas). Later, we approached a massive tabular iceberg nearly 5 by 7 kilometres in size, its edges carved with dramatic ice caves. I also spent the day contributing thermal imaging data for a Canadian polar ice research project. |
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The morning began with spectacular scenery as we sailed through fields of sea ice and enormous grounded icebergs, many likely originating from the Mertz Glacier. Thin cloud and occasional sunshine created perfect lighting across the frozen landscape, while emperor penguins darted through the icy water beside the ship. The real highlight, though, was the seals. In a single morning we spotted five Antarctic seal species on the pack ice: Weddell, Crabeater, Leopard, Elephant, and the elusive Ross seal, a particularly rare sight in this region. Even the expedition team said they had never witnessed all five in one day before. |
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I woke to a completely transformed world. Overnight, we had entered the Antarctic pack ice and crossed the Antarctic Circle, the farthest south I have ever been. Snow fell as we approached Dumont D’Urville Station, a remote French research base, passing four emperor penguins standing on the sea ice. It was my first time ever seeing emperors, an unforgettable moment. We went ashore by Zodiac onto the small snow-covered Ile du Gouverneur island which was scattered with Adelie penguins shuffling & sliding across the ice. Visibility worsened through the afternoon as the light snow intensified, the ship’s lights glowing faintly through the whiteout. Later, the station commander came aboard to describe what life is like in one of the most isolated places on Earth. |
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Four days crossing the Southern Ocean felt far longer than the Drake Passage routes I’d taken before. The voyage began with heavy swell and crashing waves, but after passing south of a major low-pressure system, the seas calmed and the sun appeared, creating rainbows in the bow spray. Days at sea were filled with Antarctic safety briefings and meticulous biosecurity checks to ensure we carried no invasive species south. One truly unforgettable moment came late on February 19th, when the captain announced bright southern lights overhead. We rushed onto the outer decks as the ship stopped to give us the best possible view. Green, red, and pink curtains of Aurora Australis surrounded the ship in every direction. This was my first time ever seeing them. Soon after, we spotted the first iceberg of the expedition and sailed onward through thick fog toward Antarctica. |
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What began as a somewhat "routine" trip from Toronto to New Zealand quickly turned into a race against the clock. A five-hour delay on my Toronto–Vancouver flight would have stranded me before the journey had even begun, so I scrambled to reroute through Edmonton, snagging the very last seat available. With barely ten minutes to make the connection, it felt like the adventure had already started before leaving Canada. Somehow, it all worked out, and after crossing the International Date Line, I landed in Auckland having completely skipped Friday the 13th. From there, it was onward to Hobart, Tasmania. The waterfront walks and warm summer air helped me to shake off the jet lag. The next day brought a ferry ride to MONA, Hobart’s famously eccentric Museum of New & Old Art. Highlights included a machine that replicates the human digestive system, molten metal sculptures showering sparks across the room, and a giant boulder balanced on glass at the brink of collapse. Then came the real beginning of the expedition: boarding Le Commandant Charcot. As rain rolled into Hobart Harbour and balcony doors were sealed for rough seas ahead, we sailed south into the Southern Ocean, waving goodbye to civilization for the next month. |
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What an honour to be named a finalist in The Explorers Club Photo Contest. This contest is part of the upcoming ECAD celebrations (Explorers Club Annual Dinner), and the competition was so impressive. I'm humbled to have been included amongst the other finalists and their superb photographs. My photo was taken on Ambrym volcano in 2017 during one of our descents into the Marum crater, home of one of the world's rare lakes of lava. |
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I just landed in New Zealand after 20 hours in the air, flying Toronto - Edmonton - Vancouver - Auckland, and when I turned my phone on, I got a notification that our Hurricane Katrina 20 year retrospective documentary, “Katrina: A Storm Like No Other” won 2 Canadian Online Publishing Awards last night!! It won for Best Videocast and Best Video Content. I was merely one small part of this program, and my congratulations go out to my good friend Mark Robinson and all the other extraordinary people over at The Weather Network who put it together. It was an honour to be involved. |
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I've only been back home for a few days, but tomorrow I begin what will become a series of consecutive expeditions that will literally take me around the world to some of the most interesting places, and harshest climates. First I'll be headed to Tasmania to board Le Commandant Charcot, the icebreaker that I was on in Greenland last year for a month-long expedition to the Magnetic South Pole and East Antarctica. These areas are very seldom visited. More people have (by far) been to the Geographic South Pole than the Magnetic South Pole. The ship will continue along East Antarctica to the French Southern & Antarctic Islands, then end in Cape Town, South Africa. From there, I head directly to Nouakchott, Mauritania for a 2 week overland expedition into the Sahara Desert, specifically to the Richat Structure, also known as "The Eye Of The Sahara." But that's not the end. From Mauritania, I continue on for another 2 weeks in Morocco to the Atlas Mountains and more. I will update as much as I can here during this epic adventure. |
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I've been at sea for the past 10 days straight. We were expecting to stop in The Azores, however, the winter storm that aaffectwd North America impacted us as well, causing high winds and sea swell to the point where we were not able to stop in Ponta Delgada. The captain did his best to keep us south of the worst of the weather, but we eventually had no choice but to turn north, causing the swell to hit our port side, which made the ship roll quite a bit. Luckily, I wasn't seasick, but I'm certain many were. Condintions improved as we sailed past the Iberian Peninsula and into the English Channel. We arrived in Southampton on time this morning, and I slowly made my way back home from the ship via Uber, a bus to Heathrow airport in London, and a flight home to the freezing cold conditions we've been having in Toronto for the past few weeks. This was my frst time aboard the Queen Victoria. She is a fine vessel, and I'm looking forward to the next time I get to sail aboard her.
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The ship docked at St. Martin this morning, on the Dutch side of the island. I had been to St. Martin before, so this time I wanted to do something different, so I decided to take the day and go on an adventure to Anguilla. The ship was holding my passport, but I managed to get it back temporarily. Anguilla is a British overseas territory, so this was going to be an international adventure. First thing after an early breakfast, I headed ashore and grabbed a taxi. The weird thing was I ended up sharing the taxi with a local woman, and the cab driver dropped her off at the emergency room of the local hospital. I have no idea what was going on. Anyway, we went from the Dutch side over to Marigot on the French side, where the ferry terminal is. I exited Saint-Marten and boarded the local ferry. The weather good today, so the 20-minute ferry ride was no problem. Once I arrived in Anguilla, I cleared immigration and grabbed another taxi to take me up to the north shore of the island. There was a particular spot I was looking for, so I got the cab driver to let me off on the side of the road, and I walked until I found it. A trail that winds its way down the hillside to the sea at Sandy Ground Beach. It was a gorgeous beach, and there was practically nobody else. I think I saw 5 other people the whole time I was there. The main attraction was a shipwreck. The Pamead was a cargo vessel that was broken up by Hurricane Luis (or Lenny) in the mid 1990’s. Sources seem to disagree on the details of what happened. There's actually not just one, but 2 ships that had been wrecked here. The Pamead, which was easy to reach, and a smaller one, possibly a tug boat, further away. I had the shipwreck all to myself, so took some photos, had a snack, took off my shoes and enjoyed the beach for a while. I didn't want to risk missing the boat, so I gave myself plenty of time to get back. Instead of finding a taxi out in the middle of nowhere, I'd planned to walk back to the ferry terminal. The walk was nice, hot but not scorching. I reversed the process and exited Anguilla, got onto the public ferry, then went through French immigration back in Marigot where I took my final taxi ride of the day back to the ship. It was a good day, and Anguilla is my 91st country (3rd new one on this voyage). |
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This marks my 90th country (Or overseas territory). Quite a milestone, I can see the next big target ahead of me. Regardless, it was a gorgeous morning, but it was windy, and the sea looked a bit choppy. We got off the ship early to go on an excursion to Nevis Island. I figured that if I was going to visit St. Kitts and Nevis, I should probably visit both islands. The ride over was in a very fast catamaran, and it was much smoother than I was expecting. No problem. Along the way, we passed some super yachts at the south end of ST. Kitts, and in the channel between the 2 islands was Booby Island (Yep, that's the name). Once on Nevis, we went on a mini-bus tour. We saw the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton in Charlestown, then the ruins of Fort Charles and eventually went to a beach spot for lunch, some rum punch and a swim in the ocean. |
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Toronto got absolutely slammed by a combination of a potent snowstorm, plus unusual, intense lake-effect snow off of Lake Ontario to produce a single-day snowfall record. The most snow to ever fall in the city in a single day. Some parts of the Greater Toronto Area received over 60cm of snow. Hundreds of flights were canceled, schools and businesses closed, and city came to a standstill. My house was in the hardest hit area. I wish I had been there in person for it, but I'm away in the sunny Caribbean. |
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I made the decision to hike out to Fort James today, which is located on a long spit of land northwest of St.John’s. I left pretty early, at 8:45 to ensure that I missed most of the harsh, mid-day sun. It took me almost an hour to get out there. Along the way I stopped to photograph some cattle egrets, and take a stroll along Fort James Beach. I arrived at the fort, and it looks like it was abandoned, then repurposed, then abandoned again. It was very decrepit, so I decided to do some urban exploration in there. The floors were falling apart, and full of holes, the roofs of the buildings were decayed. It was quite dangerous to go inside any of these buildings, and I'm surprised the place is actually open to the public. My whole time there, I only saw a few other people. I did befriend an orange and white cat that seemed to live there. I gave him some water and petted him a bit. Unfortunately, I didn't have any food for him. There were several old canons still aimed out towards the sea. The fort was built to guard St. John's harbour and is one of the many forts built by the British in the 18th century. Fear of a French invasion prompted the construction, but the site now lies in ruin, but it still offers a great view of St. John’s Harbour. I kept walking around and found another abandoned building. This one was Russel’s Bar & Seafood Restaurant. The place was absolutely abandoned and should be torn down. By the time I got back to town, it was getting hot, and I was running low on water, but I saw the big cathedral was close by, so I walked up the hill to check it out. An impressive building, for certain. It was Sunday, so there was a service going on inside. I didn't linger long before heading back to the ship. In total I was out walking in the tropical sun, carrying my heavy camera bag for about 4 hours. |
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The last time I was in Dominica was back in 2007 when I did the world’s first ever rope-traverse of the Boiling Lake. I would have loved to have done the hike up there, but it takes too much time, and I only had one day here. We went ashore early, and it was warm & humid, with the occasional drizzle here and there. I wanted to check out the botanical gardens and there was a hiking trail I was interested in. It was a short walk through town to get to the botanical gardens. One interesting monument was a school bus that had been crushed under a huge Baobab tree during Hurricane David, back in 1997. The tree is still alive and is a testament to the power of that hurricane. Dominica gets hit by them frequently. I continued to the Jack’s Walk Trail, a steep, winding trail through mostly bamboo forest. It was steep, but a good workout, I had the whole trail to myself. At the top there was a lookout where the Morne Bruce Garrison used to be. There's still an old canon there. The view overlooking the city was great, a nice reward for a sweaty hike. I passed the Morne Bruce Cross and walked up to another viewpoint. There, the sun came out and a nice rainbow made an appearance over Roseau. On my way back, I ran into some more lizards, and a bunch of huge caterpillars. Turns out they are Frangipani worms (Pseudospinx tetrio). They're huge, about as long as my hand, and are voracious eaters. It turns out they're also poisonous, so don't eat them. Apparently, they bite too. They end up turning into giant brown moths with a 6-inch wingspan. Down the trail, I encountered 2 large, green lizards, feeding on something in the underbrush, so I stopped to photograph them as well. Afterwards, I walked back through the botanical garden and strolled around a bit in town before heading back to the ship. |
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I kept walking along the shore, looking for wildlife. There were plenty of pelicans who seemed very accustomed to people. I was mainly looking for iguanas, and did manage to spot one, swimming in a little lagoon. I was able to fire off a couple of shots before he disappeared in the foliage. There was also another smaller lizard nearby that was darting around, trying to evade my camera. I found a deserted beach (Governor’s Beach) and spent some time exploring around there. There was another pelican sitting on what looked like the skeleton of an old wooden boat in the shallows, along with many other sea birds. I walked around and took my sandals off to wade through the water and into the mangroves. On the way back I spotted some crabs on the rocks. |
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Last night there was a get-together of the Toronto area members of The Explorers CLub, held at the Fjallraven outdoor clothing store downtown. We got to watch the premier episode of The Quest For The Lost Vikings. This new documentary travel series features three of our own Canadian Chapter explorers on a mission to explore the truth about their family’s Viking heritage. David Collette FN’14, Jo Sigurdson MI’12 and Mackenzie Collette MI’14 grew up listening to stories about Vikings descending from Hudson's Bay to explore the New World. Now, they are using their years of experience to uncover the truth about Viking exploration of the Americas. |
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A major snowstorm hit Toronto yesterday that certainly outperformed expectations. Pearson airport received 22 cm of snow, while here in the east end of the city, Scarborough North had between 48 to 53 cm. At my house, I measured 36 cm and it still kept coming down for several hours after I observed that. I was clearing snow for most of the day, thankfully it was light, fluffy snow, but there certainly was a LOT of it. Schools were canceled across the city, and the main north-south highway, the Don Valley Parkway was shut down in places due to heavy snow and black ice. |
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Many thanks to everyone from the Clarington Photography Club in Bowmanville, Ontario. It was great fun to share my stories of trying to take photos in some of the harshest conditions on planet Earth. |
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2026 is going to be stacked. I have so many trips, adventures & expeditions planned for this year. Be sure to check back often for updates. Some of the locations where I'll be include plans for: The Caribbean, Antarctica, The Sahara Desert, Italy and more. |
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